Pool Frog System/Aquasmarte
As your pool season gets underway, this is a great time to (re) introduce the Pool Frog Chlorination System, which many of my pool customers have connected in line with their filter. I will review how it works, how to use it, and why I have sold this system for many years.
The Frog System, and many of its private-label versions, is manufactured by King Technology. There are several reasons why it is one of the most popular sanitizing systems on the market:
- It is a straightforward system to use
- It dispenses a lower amount of chlorine into your pool water (similar to our drinking water)
- You never have to touch any chemicals and requires little maintenance
- It is non-corrosive to pool parts.
How it works: This system comprises two major components: a mineral canister and a sealed chlorine pack. The mineral canister is what it sounds like. A canister filled with minerals that kill common Bacteria in your pool water and minimize the need for large amounts of chlorine. Most mineral canisters last six months, or the length of a typical pool season. Secondly, you have the chlorine pack, which contains tablet chlorine.
Note: do not cut the top off or puncture the chlorine pack. Doing this renders the dial useless and will not allow you to meter out chlorine at a proper set rate. The tablet chlorine kills any remaining Bacteria as it is dispensed into the water through the dial system. Chlorine packs will need to be added every few weeks
Startup and using this type of system is very simple. If this is your first year, or you need a refresher, follow these simple steps:
1: Your pool should be filled and the Filter Running.
2: You must have a fresh mineral canister and chlorine pack inserted into the chamber.
3: Establish a chlorine level by running your filter for 48 hours with the dial set to #5 on the Frog System dial.
4: After 48 hours, use a test strip to check your water or bring it to your favorite pool supply store. Most will test it for free. If you bring water: please keep it in a sealed container and out of the direct sun, or it will alter the test results.
5: The chlorine level you need to be at is .05 on the strip. If that number is too high or low, adjust the dial on your system, up (to raise) or down (to lower) the chlorine level.
6: Retest the water 24 hours later (goal is .05). If needed, readjust the dial again until you reach .05 – it may take a few tries to get it right.
7: Once you have found the best number on the dial, mark it so that when you change out the chlorine pack or restart the system in the spring, you will always know where it should be set.
Chlorine levels with this system should be kept at .05 ppm (parts per million). You can test the chlorine levels using test strips or by bringing your water sample to your local pool store. Using a system or method (such as tablet floater, liquid, etc.) that does not have minerals, your pool would have to be at 1-3 ppm for proper water sanitation.
Weekly water testing should be done to maintain a proper pH and alkalinity, which are essential to the balance of your pool water. No sanitizing system works properly when these are not balanced. In addition, if you have large pool parties or experience excessive sun or rain, you may want to add some additional chlorine to the pool once a week, commonly referred to as shocking the pool. This will help take care of extra containment in the water due to these additional conditions.
Using the Frog System or one like it means using little to no chlorine, fewer odors, the increased life span of pool parts, and less fading of liners and swimsuits. When used correctly, you will have crystal-clear water with less work and more time to enjoy your pool!